Tomato ‘Vilma’
 |
Solanum lycopersicon esculentum ‘Vilma’ (so-LA-num ly-koh-PER-see-con ESS-kew-len-tum) Family: Solanaceae Common name: ‘Vilma’ |
| Description: An open-pollinated, dwarf, bush-type tomato. Plant grows up to 24 inches (60 cm) and 12 inches (30 cm) wide. Regular compound leaves are dark green. Good yield of bright red, small cherry-sized tomatoes weighing about three-quarters of an ounce (20 g). Flavour is truly exceptional.
Special Notes: ‘Vilma’ has been specifically bred for container growing…purported to be from the Czech Republic but I have been unable to confirm this detail.
How to Grow: Start seeds indoors in late March through April. Optimum soil temperature for germination is around 24 °C (75 °F) for tomatoes. Pot seedlings up into gradually larger pots as they grow. When ready to pot up into their permanent growing pot for the season, select a 6 – 8 inch (15 – 20 cm) diameter pot which is a minimum of 6 inches (15 cm) tall. Typically, bush, or determinate, tomatoes do not need to be pruned. Removing the side shoots decreases overall crop yield.
In our Zone 7a garden: I grew this tomato variety for the first time in 2017. A dozen seeds were sown into 4-cell pots on April 8th. Seed pots were placed in a plastic tray on a heat mat under fluorescent lights hung directly above. Seven seeds had germinated by April 14th. All 12 seeds had germinated by April 21st. I selected five seedlings and potted those up into 6.5 inch (16.5 cm) diameter pots which were 6 inches (15 cm) tall.
Harvested a total of 50 fruits on first picking from all 5 plants on September 7th. Total weight: 10 oz (283.5 g). Next picking on September 11th netted 20 fruits weighing 5 oz (142 g). September 16th harvest yielded 34 fruits; weight 6 oz (170 g). Weighed individually, largest fruits were between 0.22 and 0.25 of an ounce (6.5 – 7 g)…not 20 grams as references stated. Judging by the photos I have seen of ‘Vilma’, the dimensions of the fruits on my five plants looked to be on a par, which truthfully, looks more currant-size than cherry-size. Definitely on the small size. But positively big…as in huge…on flavour. No dispute there. Two things I would do differently next year…stake the plants and fertilize with a liquid fish or seaweed amendment once a week.
Posted on September 25, 2017
|
|
Lettuce ‘Drunken Woman’
 |
Lactuca sativa ‘Drunken Woman’ (lak-TOO-kah saw-TEE-vah) syn. ‘Rossa di Trento’ Family: Asteraceae Type: butterhead Common name: ‘Drunken Woman’; ‘Frizzy Head’ Zone: 9 – 11 Height: 8-12 in (20-30 cm) Spread: 6-8 in (15-20 cm) Aspect: full sun; partial shade Soil: fertile; well-draining Water: regular |
| Description: A robust, butterhead-type lettuce. Large, oval, savoy-type leaves are blistered in texture. They are a delightful mint-green colour with the ruffled edges dipped in wine-red.
Special Notes: An Italian heirloom from Milan, traditionally called Cappuccio ubriacona frastagliata which translates to “drunken woman frizzy-headed”. It is also known as ‘Rossa di Trento’ in some seed catalogues and references, stating a claim this lettuce is from the Italian Alps near Trento. Not sure who is right…other than it is an heirloom and is, indeed, from Italy. There is also further controversy over what lettuce category this one falls into. Some claim it is a butterhead type, while others claim it is a loose-leaf. The head is definitely round and fairly tight, as a butterhead. However, the leaves are quite large and have a tendency to fall away from the inner head somewhat. Its flavour is decidedly crunchier than a typical butterhead, with a faint nutty overtone rather than a buttery one.
How to Grow: Start seeds indoors under grow lights early in March. Direct seed outdoors when soil temperature reaches a minimum of 1.7 °C (35 °F). Optimum soil temperature for lettuce seed germination is 10 – 21 °C (50 – 70 °F). Amend soil with compost and a complete organic fertilizer before planting. Sow seed at a depth of ¼ – ½ in (6 – 12 mm) in rows 18 – 24 in (45 – 60 cm) apart. Thin seedlings to a spacing of 12 in (30 cm) for head lettuce and 8 – 10 in (20 – 25 cm) for leaf lettuce types. For a continuous supply of lettuce throughout the season, sow a few more seeds every 2 – 3 weeks. Cover early and late sowings with a poly tunnel or row cover to protect lettuces from frost. Ready to harvest in 50 – 60 days from direct seeding in optimum temperatures.
Posted on March 30, 2017 |
|
Asparagus ‘Mary Washington’
 Photo coming soon |
Asparagus officinalis ‘Mary Washington’ (ah-SPAR-ah-gus off-fi-si-NAY-lis) Family: Liliaceae Common name: Asparagus ‘Mary Washington’ Zone: 3 – 8 Type: perennial Height: 3-5 ft (90-150 cm) Spread: 30 in (75 cm) Aspect: full sun; partial shade Soil: alkaline; free-draining; humus-rich Water: regular |
| Description: A vigorous-growing, open-pollinated perennial with feathery blue-green foliage. The edible stems…typically called spears…are emerald-green in colour and tipped with purple buds. The delicate flavour of the spears holds well at peak quality over a longer than typical cutting period.
Special Notes: Native to the Mediterranean region, asparagus, which was once used medicinally by the Greeks, became very popular with the Romans as a highly nutritious vegetable, and they spread it throughout Europe as they expanded their Empire. When the Roman Empire tumbled, so did asparagus. It was not to be resurrected until the Renaissance when it was again deemed “an elegant vegetable” worthy of gracing the tables of the wealthy. Early pioneers brought asparagus crowns with them to America where it established easily…and also escaped garden boundaries to become wild specimens. The Department of Agriculture in Concord, MA undertook to breed an asparagus which would be more resistant to rust and fusarium wilt…two diseases which plague this vegetable. From these efforts, three varieties emerged: ‘Mary Washington’, ‘Martha Washington’, and ‘Washington’. Introduced in 1906, ‘Mary Washington’ received enthusiastic reviews from gardeners for having more vigorous growth, higher yields, and better rust resistance while imparting wonderful flavour and great texture. ‘Mary Washington’ has both male and female plants in its gene pool…although some references state this variety only contains female plants. These same references also claim male plants are more productive than female plants…even though all reports tout ‘Mary Washington’ as a vigorous grower.
In our Zone 7a garden: This vegetable is not in our garden just yet. We only decided this year to add asparagus to our list of things to grow and I opted to try growing this heirloom variety from seed. At the moment, I have four seedlings up in nine days, after soaking the seeds for two days, as recommended. I will likely follow the advice from one grower of potting up the young seedlings and growing them on for a year before transplanting them into their permanent bed. I will keep you posted.
Posted on March 10, 2017 |
|
Lettuce ‘Merlot’
|
Photo coming soon |
Lactuca sativa ‘Merlot’ Family: Asteraceae (lak-TOO-kah saw-TEE-vah) Type: loose-leaf Common name: ‘Merlot’ lettuce; ‘Galactic’ lettuce |
| Description: An open-pollinated, annual, loose-leaf type. Strikingly deep, shiny burgundy-red, wavy-edged leaves are held open and slightly upright on the main stem. Deep red colour means the leaves are rich in anthocyanins, making this a very healthy food choice.
Fast growing. Relatively slow to bolt but will do better if planted in partial shade through the high heat period in summer. Tolerates light frosts. Crisp texture and sweet flavour with regular watering. Good for growing in containers. Excellent, edible addition in your regular landscape design.
Special Notes: From the Netherlands. Enza Zaden, a Dutch seed company developed ‘Galactic’ in the 1980s but decided its dark leaf colour would impact on its success as a commercial variety. Shepherd Ogden, founder of Cook’s Garden Seeds, spotted it, re-named it ‘Merlot’ and made it available for the North American market. It is still known, and sold as, ‘Galactic’ in Europe. Good resistance to powdery mildew. Slugs, snails, deer, and rabbits can be problematic.
How to Grow: Start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow outdoors two to four weeks before your average last frost date. Succession sow a few seeds every three weeks until about four weeks before your first frost date in autumn for a continuous supply of fresh leaves all season long. Sow seeds ¼ – ½ inch (0.6-1.2 cm) deep and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Lightly cover with soil. Space rows 18 inches (45 cm) apart. Germination is usually in 7-10 days. When seedlings are about 1½ – 2 inches (4-5 cm) tall, thin plants to 10 – 12 inches (25-30 cm) apart. Water regularly to prevent bitterness. Harvest baby leaves in about 30 days. Remove full-sized leaves from the outside for continuous harvesting or harvest the whole plant. You can also cut the whole plant about 2 inches (5 cm) above the soil when it is 6 – 8 inches (15-20 cm) across. More leaves will be produced on the stem left in the ground.
In our Zone 7a garden: We have grown this lettuce variety for the last two years and been very pleased with the production and taste. As with all lettuce varieties, though, ‘Merlot’ will get bitter-tasting if it does not receive regular water. Very pretty in the salad bowl when mixed with other lettuces and a bit of kale.
Posted on August 7, 2016
|
|
Kale ‘Red Russian’
 |
Brassica oleracea var. acephela ‘Red Russian’ (BRASS-ih-kah oh-ley-AY-see-ah var. ah-SEF-ah-lah) Family: Brassicaceae Common name: Ragged Jack kale, Rouge de Russie |
| Description: Leaves are flat, deeply incised, frilly not curled, and are grey-green in colour with purplish-red stems. Colour in the veins tends to brighten up after a frost.
Special Notes: This Siberian heirloom, open-pollinated variety was brought to Canada in 1885 by Russian traders. Unfortunately, it fell out of favour, but was re-introduced in 1977 by an herbalist named Betty Jacobs. This variety is sometimes referred to as “Canadian broccoli”. This variety is good eaten fresh in salads, steamed, cooked in stir-fries, baked as chips, added to soups, or frozen. Indeed, it can be prepared much like spinach. Colour will turn a darker green when cooked. Very nutritious….rich in vitamins and minerals. One cup (250 ml) provides more than 100 % of the daily value (DV) of vitamins A and K. It also provides 88 % of the DV for vitamin C. It is one of the richest vegetative sources of calcium and protein, as well as being a good source for such vital minerals as iron, magnesium, and manganese. Kale is also a rich source of organosulphur compounds which are linked to cancer prevention. A winter hardy variety which easily withstands frosts and snow without any cover in our Zone 7a garden. Indeed, the leaves are even sweeter after a frost. They also remain tasty through the warm summer months…much better than other kale varieties. Good pest and disease resistance. Aphids may be a problem. Deer proof.
How to Grow: Start seeds indoors 6 – 8 weeks before last frost date. Or direct seed outdoors 3 – 5 weeks before last frost date. (Typically, the last frost date is the end of April or May 1st in our garden…although it was on April 14th in 2015.) Sow seeds 1.5 cm (1/2 in) deep. Seeds will germinate in temperatures as low as 5 °C (42 °F) and as high as 35 °C (95 °F). Germination takes 3 – 10 days. Transplant seedlings when they have four leaves and are about 9 in (22 cm) tall. If you are growing for baby salad leaves, space seedlings 4 – 6 in (10 – 15 cm) apart. For whole plants, allow 12 in (30 cm) between plants and space rows 18 in (45 cm) apart. Place the seedlings slightly deeper than they were in their pots. Grows well in a container. Be sure to water seedlings in dry weather. Plants also benefit from regular feedings of a liquid fertilizer. Harvest leaves as needed. They will store in the fridge for up to 10 days, wrapped in paper towel and placed in a plastic bag. You can also freeze kale leaves for up to 6 months. One final word on growing kale…or any other members in the Brassica family for that matter. Be sure to rotate this crop! DO NOT plant in the same spot more than once in every four or five years to avoid risk of clubroot. This is a very nasty disease. Once you have it, you are not able to grow any variety of brassicas in that area for a minimum of seven years…and I have heard tell as long as seventeen years. Definitely to be avoided at all costs. A friend blames the use of soaker hoses for her infestation of clubroot, so you may want to avoid using those on your brassicas, just in case. And to be doubly sure of keeping clubroot out of your garden, keep all brassicas out of the compost bins. Bag them and send them to the landfill or put them on the burn pile.
Posted on March 10, 2016 |
|
