How To: Propagate Stem Cuttings

A relatively easy way to propagate new plants is by rooting stem cuttings. Success is better achieved by using a good potting medium, a sharp clean cutting tool, and a rooting hormone.

Types of stem cuttings

There are three types:

  • Softwood are new stems developing in spring on existing branches. They are typically referred to as “this year’s growth” and taken in spring and early summer…late May through June.
  • Semi-hardwood are stems which are nearly mature. These are the type of cuttings taken in mid-summer…mid-July through early August.
  • Hardwood are stems which are fully mature. These are the type of cuttings taken in late summer and early fall…mid-September through early October.

Materials needed

  • clean pot or tray with plastic bag or lid for cover
  • soilless growing medium*
  • cutting implement
  • rubbing alcohol or 10% bleach solution for disinfecting
  • rooting hormone**
  • cuttings – cut 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) long branches from tips of healthy plants; make cuts mid node (between leaf nodes)
  • container of water to hold fresh cuttings
  • pencil or thin dowel

Procedure

  1. Disinfect pot, cover, and cutting implements.
  2. Select healthy plants for your cuttings.
  3. Cut stems just below a leaf node and place them in your container of water to keep hydrated.
  4. Fill clean pot with growing medium and moisten slightly.
  5. Take one of your stem cuttings out of the container and make a clean cut right below a leaf node…if you did not make a clean cut at the leaf node when cutting your stems.
  6. Remove bottom leaves from stem cutting, leaving 2-4 at the top. If leaves are quite large, cut in half to reduce weight so stems will remain upright in pot.
  7. Remove any flower buds, flowers, and/or fruits from the stem cutting.
  8. Pour a small amount of rooting hormone in a small cup or lid. Moisten stem tip in water and dip it in rooting hormone. Be sure to coat bottom half-inch or inch (1.25-2.5 cm) of stem.
  9. Poke a hole in your growing medium, wide enough to plant stem without touching sides of hole to prevent dislodging the rooting hormone.
  10. Place stem in hole, at least 2 inches (5 cm) deep. Tamp soilless medium around cutting to provide good contact for root development.
  11. Cover pot with plastic bag or cover tray with plastic cover to keep cuttings hydrated. You may want to remove the cover for a few hours periodically in order to allow some air to circulate around the cuttings and decrease chances of powdery mildew forming.

You should have roots on softwood cuttings in four to six weeks. Semi-hardwood cuttings should have roots in six to eight weeks. Hardwood cuttings take three to four months, or longer, to develop a good root system.

 

*Growing medium

Best to use a soilless mix such as perlite, vermiculite, sand, or a combination of a soilless seed starting medium with perlite or vermiculite or sand mixed in. I generally use seed starting soilless mix with a generous addition of perlite mixed in to improve drainage. DO NOT use soil from your garden beds or compost as they contain many soil organisms such as fungi and other pathogens which can be deadly to stem cuttings…and young seedlings too for that matter.

 

**Rooting hormone

All plants contain a natural rooting hormone called auxin which not only stimulates growth but also signals a bud when not to grow. This helps stem cuttings develop new roots from the cut leaf node.

However, there are products on the market that will help the process. Synthetic auxins have been on the market since the 1930’s. The ones available to home gardeners contain chemicals such as indolebutyric acid (IBA) in alcohol or a-naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) in talc. The dry hormone preparations usually contain fungicides to help prevent powdery mildew on the cuttings. These are not allowed under certified organic criteria.

We use the NAA rooting hormone and there are three types…each specifically manufactured to use with one of the three types of stem cuttings:

  • #1 is used with softwood stem cuttings.
  • #2 is used with semi-hardwood stem cuttings.
  • #3 is used with hardwood stem cuttings.

 

For more details about stem cuttings and materials needed, check out this blog posting here.

3 Powdery Mildew Recipes

Powdery Mildew Recipe #1

1 tbsp (15 ml) baking soda
1 tsp (5 ml) vegetable oil
1 tsp (5 ml) liquid soap
1 gal (3.8 L) water

Mix together in a spray canister and apply weekly to top and bottom of leaves.

Note: Some people recommend using horticultural oil which is more refined than dormant oil, thus safer for use on fruiting plants. However, use should be discontinued one week prior to harvesting….impossible with zucchinis and cucumbers ripening on an on-going basis. Also, some experts claim you should use insecticidal soap, not dish detergent. I use organic dish soap in my kitchen, so that is what I use in this recipe. Option is yours.

 

Powdery Mildew Recipe #2

1 part milk
2 parts water

Combine milk and water in a spray canister and apply weekly to top and bottom of leaves.

Note: Why this works so well on powdery mildew is not wholly understood, but speculation leans towards the natural compounds in milk boost a plant’s immune system.

 

Powdery Mildew Recipe #3

2 tbsp (30 ml) potassium bicarbonate
1 tbsp (15 ml) liquid soap
1 gal (3.8 L) water

Mix together in a spray canister and apply weekly to top and bottom of leaves.

Note: Potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3) is similar to baking soda and has long been used in medicine, as a food ingredient and leavening agent. It helps to prevent mildew and fungus growth and is approved for use in organic gardening.

 

Posted on August 16, 2018

Heliopsis helianthoides ‘Helhan’ (Loraine Sunshine)

Heliopsis Loraine Sunshine

Heliopsis helianthoides ‘Helhan’    Family: Asteraceae
(hee-lee-OP-sis hee-lee-an-THOY-deez)
syn. Heliopsis helianthoides Loraine Sunshine

Common name: false sunflower; ox-eye daisy
Zone: 3 – 9
Height: 2 – 3 ft (60-90 cm)   Spread: 2 – 3 ft (60-90 cm)
Aspect: full sun; partial shade
Soil: average; well-draining
Water: moderate

Description: An herbaceous, upright growing, perennial. Dynamic lanceolate leaves are white with strong green colouring in the veins. Leaf edges tend to naturally curl upwards slightly. Round, daisy-like flowers are 2 to 3 inches in diameter and a bright cheery yellow colour. Blooming period begins in mid-June and lasts through until frost. Good cut flowers. Drought tolerant once established. Powdery mildew can be a problem; allow for good air circulation. Watch for aphids.

Special Notes: Heliopsis spp. are native to the eastern and central regions of Canada and the United States. This variegated hybrid was discovered in a Wisconsin garden in 1992. Blooms of Bressingham took on the propagation and eventually introduced it worldwide.

Tolerant of a range of soil conditions with the exception of very fertile and very poor. The former produces lanky growth with a tendency to flop. Very poor soil conditions will produce a smaller clump with fewer stems.

 

Heliopsis helianthoides Loraine SunshineIn our Zone 7a garden:Loraine Sunshine was introduced into our back garden about ten years ago and has been greatly enjoyed ever since. At full three foot height and spread, the plant is pure delight when in full bloom and really quite incredible for its long bloom period extending into late fall. Even the tough drought conditions we have been experiencing for the last four summers now have not fazed its floral show. Can highly recommend this Heliopsis cultivar.

 

Posted on July 25, 2018

Spilosoma virginica (yellow woolly bear)

Spilosoma virginica (Virginian tiger moth) - wing markings Spilosoma virginica
(SPIL-oh-so-mah  ver-GIN-eh-kah)
Family: Erebidae            Subfamily: Arctiidae
Common name: yellow woolly bear; Virginian tiger moth
Host plant(s): range of low-growing, herbaceous plants
Adult size: wingspan: 1.3 – 2.0 in (3.2-5.2 cm)
Larval length: up to 2.0 in (5.0 cm)
Flight time: May through August

Type: minimal pest  

Life cycle:
            Generations per year: 2 to 3
            Egg: unknown
            Larva: unknown
            Pupa: unknown
            Adult: unknown

Spilosoma virginica (Virginian tiger moth) - side viewDescription: A medium-sized moth with white head, thorax, abdomen, and wings. The forewing has two black dots; the hindwing has several black dots, mostly located in a row in the  marginal area. Anterior legs are marked with yellow and black; remaining legs are white and black. The white abdomen is characteristically marked with yellow-orange and black dots arranged symmetrically.

yellow woolly bear caterpillar (Spilosoma virginica)Larva is woolly-looking, covered densely with long yellow and white hairs.

Adult moths begin to appear in late spring…typically May. After mating, females will lay 20 – 100 eggs grouped in a single layer on the underside of a leaf. When larvae hatch, they stay together for a brief period, feeding, and then disperse singly to other plants. Larvae defoliate host plant by skeletonizing its leaves, but usually does not harm the plant. Most larval damage occurs in the last generation as fall approaches. This generation will overwinter in the pupa stage. There are two to three generations per year.

 

Spilosoma virginica moth (Virginian tiger moth) - front viewSpecial Notes: Native throughout the temperate regions of North America. Here in the Pacific Northwest, it is generally found at low elevations from the northern parts of central British Columbia to central California.

 

Remedial Actions: None needed. Not a serious pest.

 

Re-posted on July 17, 2018

 

Garden Tip: Deadheading sticky rhodo blossoms

by Leslie Cox; Monday; June 11, 2018

Rhododendron 'Anna Rose Whiney'Deadheading a rhododendron can be quite a chore at the best of times…especially if it is a tall one like our beautiful ‘Anna Rose Whitney’. And we have two of those!

Not only is ‘Anna Rose Whitney’ very tall, but the spent blossoms are very sticky. So sticky, they cling to your gloves, or bare hands if you prefer to deadhead without gloves.

One solution we have found is to don a pair of disposable gloves and slather our fingertips with Vaseline. Works like a dream…the spent blossoms don’t stick at all. However, there is one caveat…you have to keep re-applying more Vaseline.

There is a second solution which I have just recently discovered…deadhead the sticky rhodo blossoms on a rainy day. Preferably after it has been raining for a while and the shrub is thoroughly wet.

I usually stick to inside chores on big rain days in consideration for my arthritis. However, I was falling behind on garden chores so suited up into rain gear and ventured out to tackle some deadheading on the rhodos. I started with a non-sticky rhodo and then moved on to ‘Anna Rose Whitney’ right next to it…without switching to disposable gloves and Vaseline. What a pleasant surprise to find the spent blossoms were not clinging to my garden gloves! (If I could ignore the soaking I was getting from the rain, that is!) Seems wet gloves, as yucky as they are to wear, work every bit as well as Vaseline!

Happy deadheading on those rhodos!

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