Homemade Aphid Spray Recipe

elder aphids, some winged & antsAphids are the very devil to get rid of. It is especially tough when your young seedlings are infested. Due diligence is the key…daily checks to ensure all seedlings are healthy…because a few aphids on a plant are a whole lot easier to deal with than a horde. And it never hurts to keep a close watch on your garden plants for any possible aphid damage…especially plants like roses and vegetables like cabbages and other brassicas.

The recipe:

1 quart (1 L) water
1 tbsp (15 ml) organic dish soap*
1 tsp (5 ml) cooking oil

Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle.
Shake well and spray infested plant every day to kill all aphids.

*Note: I always buy EcoMax which is an organic brand of dish soap, but that is just my preference. Bottom line: We are on septic so I am very careful about what goes down our drains. You can find this product and other organic brands of dish soap in the organic section of your supermarket.

 

Posted on May 5, 2018

Dolichovespula maculata (bald-faced hornet)

bald-faced hornet in Scrophularia auriculata flower

Dolichovespula maculata             Family: Vespidae
Common name: Bald-faced hornet

Host plant: various species

Adult size: 0.5 – 0.75 in (13 – 20 mm)

Beneficial predator

 

Life cycle:
           Generations per year: 5 – 7 depending on latitude
            Egg: 6 days
            Larva: 8 days
            Pupa: 9 – 10 days
            Adult: 122 – 170 days depending on latitude

 

Description & Life Cycle: The bald-faced hornet is not a hornet, but rather one of the many types of yellowjackets. They are black and white in colour versus the typical black and yellow of other yellowjackets which likely attributes to their being called a hornet. Notably, their face is white which explains the “bald face” in their name. Bald-faced hornets are larger than their yellowjacket counterparts.

Inseminated (fertilized) queens are the only ones to overwinter, emerging anywhere from the end of March in central California to mid-May in Washington State and southern British Columbia, Canada. The lower the latitude the longer the life cycle; the higher the latitude the shorter the lifecycle.

bald-faced hornet workersThe overwintered queen builds a nest out of wood cellulose she has gathered, chewed and mixed with her saliva to produce a paper-like material. Once a few brood cells have been formed inside the nest, she lays her first batch of eggs. The queen tends and feeds this first group of emerging larvae who will become workers and assume the chores of expanding the nest, collecting food, feeding the young larvae, and protecting the nest upon their maturity. (Photo right: 2 worker hornets: worker top left is building onto the nest; worker right is returning from a hunt to feed young larvae.)

Towards the end of summer, the queen will lay eggs destined to become future queens. She will also lay unfertilized eggs from which males, called drones, will emerge. Once mature, the new queens and males will leave the nest to mate. These queens will feed on nectar before searching out a suitable spot to overwinter in tree hollows, under bark, in rock walls, and even attics.

The new young queens are the only survivors. The rest of the colony, including the current queen, will perish when the first frost of winter hits.

 

Special Notes: Called a hornet, but not a hornet, this bee species is actually an “aerial yellowjacket”…one of about 8 species in the genus Dolichovespula. Exclusively native to North America, it is found in all Canadian provinces and territories, except Nunavit, as well as in all American states, with the exception of Hawaii.

This bee species is a social insect and lives in colonies of up to about 400 bees. Bald-faced hornets have a distinct caste system made up of:

  • Queens – fertile, egg-laying females; she is the largest in the colony
  • Workers – infertile females who continue nest building, tending young, collect food, and defend the colony from interlopers / invasion
  • Drones – fertile males (from unfertilized eggs) whose sole purpose is to mate with future queens; they do not have stingers

The grey, paper-like nests are typically large, pear-shaped structures tapering to a narrow entry point at the bottom. They can be up to 23 inches (58.5 cm) in length and 14 – 15 inches (35.5 – 38 cm) in diameter. They are usually built in trees and large shrubs but have been found near homes and other human structures which have flower gardens nearby.

Bald-faced hornets feed on nectar for quick energy but are wonderful hunters of insects which makes this bee a welcome beneficial insect to anyone’s garden…although they do not distinguish between good insect and pest insect when they are hunting.

 

large bald-faced hornets' nest In our Zone 7a garden: We have yet to see a nest colony in our garden, but did spot a large nest in a neighbour’s tree one block over from us. Wherever the bald-faced hornets make their annual home, we can always guarantee they will show up in our garden to hunt insects and feast on flower nectar, particularly from the Scrophularia auriculata ‘Variegata’ plants. These plants, commonly called variegated water figwort, are sited right at the entrance to what was once my herb garden…a point of entry which is much used in the course of a day spent working in the garden. Truthfully, we have brushed right up against the branches where many of these hornets have been feeding on nectar, and have yet to be stung. This gives credence to the claim bald-faced hornets are generally docile unless their nest is disturbed. In that case, it is best that you run. Fast.

Because of their docile nature, and the fact this bee does so much good work in the garden for us, assisting in keeping the pest insects under control, it is highly recommended you do not destroy their nests or kill the bees. Unless of course, they have built a nest in an unfavourable location on your house.

 

Posted on April 11, 2018

 

Discula destructiva – dogwood anthracnose

dogwood anthracnose Discula destructiva     Family: Gnomoniaceae

Common name: dogwood anthracnose

Host plant: Cornus florida (flowering dogwood); Cornus nuttallii (Pacific dogwood)
Main symptoms: tan blotches surrounded by a purple rim on leaves; oval shaped cankers on branches and eventually onto the main trunk; flowers and fruits also damaged
Caused by: fungus
Timing: spring and autumn

Description & Life Cycle: This anthracnose fungus attacks the lower leaves of its preferred host tree and works its way up the tree to the uppermost leaves in a severe case of infection. Dogwood anthracnose is identifiable by its tan blotches surrounded by a purple rim. (The purple rim may not appear for a few days.) In some cases, the centre of the blotch area becomes so thin holes will appear within the purple rim.

Infected leaves on Pacific and flowering dogwoods usually drop prematurely in the spring. However, those leaves at the branch tips which may become infected in the fall will stay on the tree and cause the death of terminal buds. The result is a reduction of bud break in spring which forces the tree to produce new leaves through lateral buds in midsummer.

Flower buds and fruits are also susceptible to infection.

In the fall, any infected leaves typically stay on the branch allowing the anthracnose fungus to travel along the leaf petioles into the branch tips which results in oval-shaped cankers developing on the branches. These grow until the cankers completely girdle the branch, effectively killing it. If the fungus spreads to larger branches, these can also succumb to the infection…and if it reaches the main trunk, the whole tree can die.

This is a nasty fungus and, sadly, the cool, wet spring and fall weather we experience in the Pacific Northwest are exactly what Discula destructiva thrives on.

 

Special Notes: It is thought the dogwood anthracnose came from somewhere in Asia, arriving first in the Port of Seattle in 1976 and then in New York in 1978. From these two ports of entry, the fungus has spread into Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Delaware, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Virginia, Maryland, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Georgia. Two Canadian provinces, British Columbia and Ontario, also have the dogwood anthracnose fungus.

To give some scale to the seriousness of this fungus, a survey of Cornus florida trees was conducted in Catoctin Mountain National Park in Maryland in 1984, which determined only three percent of dogwoods were not infected with Discula destructiva. Four years later, a follow-up survey revealed eighty-nine percent of the dogwood trees had died, there were only a very, very few dogwood seedlings regenerating new growth in the forest, and all remaining live trees were infected.

 

Remedial Action: none known

 

Posted on March 22, 2018

 

Best Kale Salad

Not everyone likes kale but guaranteed some will be converts after tasting this salad. (There is a secret step in this recipe.) We like dinosaur kale, ‘Lacinato’, but we grow other kale varieties and often add them to the salad for colour and texture. Be brave; give this salad a try.

Prep Time: 15 minutes
Marinate Time: minimum 10 minutes
Serves 4

Ingredients:
6 – 8 (8 oz / 225 g) kale leaves
generous pinch of sea salt
4 – 5 (4 oz / 115 g) radishes, washed and thinly sliced
1 medium (6 oz / 170 g) apple, seeded and diced
½ c (125 ml) dried cranberries
½ c (125 ml) pecans, pine nuts, or almonds, chopped
¼ c (63 ml) sesame seeds, toasted
½ c (2 oz / 55 g) feta cheese, crumbled

Dressing:
3 tbsp (45 ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 ½ tbsp (22 ml) white balsamic vinegar
1 ½ tbsp (22 ml) honey
1 tbsp (15 ml) smooth Dijon mustard
dash of sea salt to taste
dash of coarse black pepper to taste

Procedure:

To toast seeds, spread them on a baking sheet and toast in a 350 °F (180 °C) oven for 5 to 10 minutes or toast them in a skillet on the stove over medium heat. Whatever the method, stir the seeds frequently and watch they do not burn. Remove from oven or burner once the seeds start to turn brown. Immediately pour seeds into a small dish, as they will continue to cook on the cookie sheet and in the skillet.

Cut out the tough stems from the kale leaves and discard. Cut the kale leaves into bite-sized pieces. Wash kale in cold water. Place washed kale pieces into a salad spinner and spin dry. (Best done in batches.)

Secret step: Empty each batch of washed and spun-dried kale onto a towel and roll towel to dry kale further. Empty into a large bowl. Sprinkle a very small pinch of sea salt over the dried kale and massage the leaves with your hands by lightly scrunching them. The leaves will go darker in colour and release a delightful fragrance.

Repeat sea salt and massaging for each dried batch of kale leaves.

Sprinkle radish slices, diced apple, and dried cranberries over kale leaves.

Sprinkle chopped nuts and toasted sesame seeds overtop.

Crumble feta cheese on top.

To make dressing:

Measure all ingredients into a small bowl and whisk vigorously to combine well. Pour over salad and toss to evenly distribute dressing through the kale leaves.

Allow the salad to marinate for a minimum of 10 minutes before serving. Better yet, make this salad in the morning, cover, and put in the refrigerator to marinate until dinner.

Primula vulgaris ‘Kerbelnec’

Primula vulgaris Belarina® Nectarine Primula vulgaris ‘Kerbelnec’     Family: Primulaceae
(PRIM-yu-luh  vul-GAIR-iss)
Syn. Primula vulgaris Belarina® Nectarine

Common name: Belarina® Nectarine Primrose
Zone: 5 – 9
Height: 6-8 in (15-20 cm)  Spread: 6-8 in (15-20 cm)
Aspect: partial shade
Soil: fertile; well-draining
Water: regular  

Description: A low growing, clump-forming, evergreen perennial with bright green, wrinkled leaves. Fully double flowers open a deep yellow-orange colour and slowly transform through shades of apricot-pinky-orange to a gorgeous rose-orange as they mature. Bloom time begins in April and lasts through into June or July with regular dead-heading. Plant may go dormant in the high heat of summer if in full sun.

 

Special Notes: For clarity sake, Primula vulgaris ‘Kerbelnec’ is the patented name of this plant. Belarina® Nectarine is the registered trade name by which it is more commonly sold. It was bred by Cambridge, UK plant breeders, David and Priscilla Kerley, and introduced in 2014. Double-flowered primulas were once very popular in England a century or two ago but had become largely extinct. Through careful breeding, the Kerleys have bred a number of different cultivars in the Belarina® series for the gardener’s growing pleasure. (I have acquired a few in this series: Belarina® Pink Ice, Belarina® Valentine, and Belarina® Amethyst Ice.)

 

In our Zone 7a garden: Belarina® Nectarine was a new acquisition to our garden in 2017 and was planted in the front garden out of direct sunlight behind a Weigela spp. and shaded by the canopy of our large chestnut tree. A very stunning plant. Highly recommend this cultivar.

 

Posted on February 28, 2018

 

 

 

 

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