Mustard ‘Komatsuna’
 Photo coming soon |
Brassica rapa var. perviridis Family: Brassicaceae |
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Days to Maturity: From seed – 20 days (baby greens); 40 days (full size)
Description: A biennial leafy Asian green. Moderately elliptical, dark green leaves are grown on a long stem. They are slightly textured with veining quite prominently displayed. Although a biennial, this is considered a cool season crop, although it can tolerate short periods of extreme heat. It is reasonably frost-hardy to temperatures as low as -18 °C to -12 °C (0 °F to 10 °F). Protection with row cover or in a hoop house at the low temperatures is recommended.
Special Notes: An open-pollinated variety native to Japan, Korea, and Taiwan, this mustard is closely related to cabbage, turnips, rapini, and bok choi. Originally grown exclusively in its native countries, it was introduced into North America in the 1930s but has only recently gained some popularity in the specialty markets. Fast growing at optimum soil temperature, komatsuna can be harvested for baby greens at 20 – 30 days from seeding. Matures to full size in 40 days. Leaves have good nutritional value, rich in beta carotene, calcium, and Vitamins A, B2, C, and K. Also highly prized for its glucosinolates…sulfur-containing compounds found in brassicas which are generally thought to have great benefits in fighting cancer.
How to Grow: Optimum soil temperature range: 7 °C – 35 °C (45 °F – 95 °F). Minimum soil temperature: 4.5 °C (40 °F). Ideal soil temperature: 29.5 °C (85 °F). Ideal soil pH: 6.0 – 6.5. Amend planting row with Complete Organic Fertilizer (click here for recipe)…one cup (250 ml) per ten feet (3 m). If starting indoors, sow seeds from early February through to early March. If direct seeding outdoors, sow undercover for frost protection. From March through to the end of May, direct sow short rows every 2 – 3 weeks to ensure a continuous harvest of baby greens or mature plants. Start sowing again in late August or early September for late fall and winter harvests. Cut individual leaves or the whole plant at whatever maturity stage you prefer. Young leaves are tender with a gentler flavour than the tougher mature ones. If left too long, mature leaves can develop a slight bitterness. Use in salads, stir fries, soups, or as a steamed vegetable like spinach. Can be dried for longer storage in an air-tight container in a dry cool place.
Pests & Diseases: Slugs and wood lice (sow bugs) can be a problem for young seedlings. Good housekeeping in keeping rows debris-free with no puddles of water should help with these two pests. Flea beetles are attracted to the more mature leaves, leaving tiny round holes in their wake. Using row cover will guard against this pest. As with every member in the Brassicaceae family, clubroot is of major concern to komatsuna. Keeping to a strict regime of rotating your crops annually in a four or five year cycle…and not sowing another brassica crop where you grew one the year before is paramount to keeping clubroot out of your garden.
In our Zone 7a garden: We grew komatsuna for the first time in 2017. It grew well for us in our vegetable garden, which is in full sun…although some sections are shaded by a tall birch tree during part of the day. First planting was in the area which enjoys part shade through the heat of the day. This siting certainly delayed the komatsuna plants from bolting by a couple of weeks, at least, during the high heat of summer. We enjoyed the addition of young leaves in our salads so will definitely be growing this variety again in 2018. This time I will be experimenting in seeding a low pot of komatsuna…both green and the new hybrid red variety…to grow on my front porch which enjoys filtered sun.
Posted on February 21, 2018
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Peronospora spp. – Aquilegia Downy Mildew (ADM)
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Peronospora spp. Family: Peronosporaceae Plant affected: Aquilegia (columbine) |
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Aquilegia downy mildew (ADM) is spread by air- and water-borne spores. Can be carried long distances by the wind. Outbreaks typically occur when there are prolonged periods of rain in spring and/or late summer. Ideal conditions for production of spores and infection. While the airborne spores are only viable for a short time, the fungus is capable of producing a second type, called a resting spore, between the leaf tissues. These resting spores are more resilient. Released into the soil from decaying diseased material they can survive for several months, and perhaps for several years although this fact has not been confirmed.
The disease is so new, scientists have yet to assign a species name to the genus. While it has been placed in the same genus (Peronospora) as powdery mildew which also affects aquilegias, it is not related…despite certain similarities in symptoms.
Remedial Action: There is no chemical control for this disease. However, strict attention to hygiene in the prompt removal of any diseased parts or whole plants, as a non-chemical control method, will reduce the risk of resting spores contaminating the soil. Immediately burn diseased plants, or bag them for garbage removal. DO NOT COMPOST. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) has recommended not re-planting aquilegias in an affected area of the garden for at least a year. This advice may not have merit as there other species of Peronospora affecting other plant species which produce resting spores capable of surviving several years in the soil. Read more about Aquilegia Downy Mildew (ADM) in my Blog dated March 1, 2017. (Quick link here.)
Posted on February 14, 2018 |
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Galanthus nivalis
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Galanthus nivalis Family: Amaryllidaceae (gah-LAN-thuss niv-ALL-iss) Common name: snowdrop |
| Description: A bulbous perennial with narrow, smooth-textured, green leaves and delicate white flowers composed of six perianth* segments. Flowers are held dangling from the tip of the flower stem. After flowering, a capsule forms, roughly spherical in shape. Several brown seeds are held within the fruit capsule until they are ripe enough for release.
Special Notes: Native to Eastern Europe and southwestern Asia, snowdrops have been introduced, and naturalized, in many parts of the world including the United Kingdom, western Europe, and North America. A true harbinger that spring is coming, its strap-like leaves begin to poke up in late January or February. Flower buds follow with bloom time happening from late February through to late March…even into April, depending on weather conditions. Planting a few bulbs will gradually produce a lovely colony through self-seeding and bulb offsets, called bulblets. Plants will tolerate weak winter sun but best to plant under deciduous trees or herbaceous perennials which will provide shade to the resting bulbs below ground through the heat of the summer. Keep the snowdrop bulbs watered during drought. Allow leaves to yellow after flowering. During this time, they are sending energy back to the bulbs. If left alone, the leaves will naturally die back and disappear by late spring as the bulbs go dormant for the rest of the year. Snowdrops are easy care, tolerant of a range of soil types including clay. Purported to be resistant to the chemical juglans released by the black walnut tree, under which nothing will grow. They are also deer resistant. Cut flowers will last 5 to 7 days.
In our Zone 7a garden: I have noticed the patches of snowdrops in John’s back garden generally start appearing before mine in the front garden. The reason, I believe, is because my snowdrops are in shade from surrounding evergreen plants and the neighbours’ conifers…whereas John’s snowdrops are planted under deciduous shrubs and trees.
*Note: perianth – the outer part of a flower made up of the calyx (sepals) and corolla (petals)
Posted on January 17, 2018 |
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Helleborus net necrosis virus – hellebore black death
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Helleborus net necrosis Family: Carlavirus
Common name: hellebore black death |
| Description: A viral disease, Helleborus net necrosis virus or HeNNV for short, which infects plants in early to mid-spring. Symptoms appear as distortions on new foliage, causing the plant to look stunted. Typically, patterns of vein-clearing (streaks of lighter leaf colour along the veins) will become evident, followed by discoloration and darkening into distinct black streaks, or lines. The damage will become progressively worse as spring advances. Black streaks will eventually develop on the stems and extend onto the sepals and carpels.
Special Notes: Hellebore Black Death has been known to develop a pattern of rings, rather than streaks, which can confuse a gardener into thinking their plant is afflicted with the much less deadly disease, black spot. Early speculation leans towards this virus being carried and transmitted by the hellebore aphid, Macrosiphum hellebori.
Remedial Action: Remove all leaves which are showing black streaking or black spots and place in garbage. Do not compost! Check plants carefully for aphids, as this is how scientists believe the virus is being transmitted. Treat thoroughly if aphids are present. If the plant is deteriorating with progressing black streaking and overall stunted growth, dig up plant and place in garbage. There is no none cure for Hellebore Black Death at this time.
Posted on January 24, 2018 |
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Catocala briseis (briseis underwing moth)
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Catocala briseis Family: Erebidae Type: Pest |
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Life cycle: Generations per year: one
Larva is mostly smooth skinned, grey and tan in colour with small orange-red subdorsal spots, an orange-red and black patch in the middle of the back, and a ventral fringe of whisker-like hairs below the lateral line.
Special Notes: This moth species is very similar to Catocala californica (western underwing moth) so are difficult to differentiate, particularly as they can both be found in the Pacific Northwest. Some scientists believe they represent ecotypes of the same species.
Remedial Actions: None needed with this underwing species. Not generally considered to be too much of a pest as far as I can tell from my research. However, some species of the gardener’s nemesis, the cutworm, are underwing moths in their adult form.
Posted on January 10, 2018 |
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